Cruise — June 2001

Alaska
Inside
Passage

A 30th birthday gift for my young bride, who had always wanted to go to Germany. She now thinks anywhere else in the world would be a disappointment.

6
Days — Vancouver to Ketchikan
Radiance of the Seas
Inaugural Alaska season
June 2001
One of the top ten days of my life

The first thing you have to ask yourself when you consider a cruise to Alaska is whether or not you have an occasion special enough to merit the expense. Are you retiring? Are you filthy rich? Have you "just always wanted to go"? Is it a gift for someone special? Well, the last is the reason I decided to go. Our trip to Alaska was a gift for my young bride's 30th birthday. She threw me a great party for my 30th and I almost couldn't keep her gift a secret for the month or so I had to wait for her to hit the big 3-OH.

She was surprised, and if you can believe it, she was a little disappointed. She has "always wanted to go to Germany" — her homeland of sorts, as she is the first in her immediate family born in the United States. No, she doesn't have a cool German accent, but her Oma sure did.

Join us in reflection of our trip and realize why she now thinks any other place in the world would be a disappointment.

Double rainbow
Leaving Vancouver — a double rainbow. Can you see both of them?
01
Vancouver, B.C.

Planes, Busses
and Boats

We sort of expected a Love Boat-esque departure from the harbour at Vancouver. Everyone stands outside and waves to everyone else on shore. Well, our expectations suffered from too much Hollywood influence. We didn't know we were moving until we saw the dock floating by from the elevator. Talk about a weird sensation.

It had been a terribly long day, departing for a 6:00 AM CST flight and finally disembarking at 6:30 PM PST — 14 hours later. Taking off from Vancouver, a double rainbow promised we would have a wonderful time.

Waterfall
First waterfall of the trip
Bay Island Sunset Mountains
02
Juneau, Alaska

The Helicopter Ride

Juneau, Alaska would bring us face to face with the capital city of Alaska. We had one excursion planned: a helicopter ride to the Mendenhall Glacier where we would exit and walk around on the glacier for an hour and a half. We had been on a helicopter ride once before while visiting Sedona, Arizona — a choppy, gut-wrenching roller coaster that made us anxious about another trip. But the chance to actually walk on a glacier? We were in.

The first thing I wanted to do when I got off the boat was use the phone. I just had to call in and see what was going on in the office. We docked about 9:00 AM, making it around noon at home, and I just needed to satisfy myself that they could survive without me. But enough about me.

Here it is — the Radiance of the Seas docked in Juneau. Ours was the inaugural season of the Radiance in Alaska. The boat was really nice. There was even a top-floor bar and dance floor modelled after the Seattle Space Needle.

Helicopter
Helicopter over Mendenhall Glacier
Radiance of the Seas
Radiance of the Seas — inaugural Alaska season
Glacier Boots on glacier On glacier
Juneau Capitol Falls Couple
03
Skagway, Alaska

The Train Ride

You may wonder what can top riding a jet-powered helicopter to the top of a glacier. I gotta tell you, not much can. Even though a train ride doesn't sound as exciting as the helicopter, I assure you, the views were awe-inspiring. Our weather was once again incredible. No rain and 60 degrees in the valley.

Skagway is a little town that probably holds about 345 people in residence — and residence, I would have to assume, means you tough it out during the winter. This was the launching place for the Alaskan gold rush. I have to confess, I didn't even know there was a gold rush before our visit, but that's the reason we like to go places we've never been: to learn something.

For the railroad trip, we were advised to get a car near the end of the train because the smoke and fumes are strong at the front. We were also advised to sit on the left side for the view. This was good advice for good pictures of the train, and there weren't many fumes on the way up. But on the trip down... whoa, boy.

The White Pass & Yukon Route railroad was started to get the gold-hungry settlers over the treacherously cold mountains and on their way to gold. Today, the railroad trips up the mountain are about the only thing Skagway has to offer the thousands of tourists who see the town for the first and last time in their lives each day.

Train
White Pass & Yukon Route
Snow plow
Snow plow locomotive — that red scoop holds huge spinning blades
Valley Rapids Tunnel Snow
Stream Bridge Border Valley
04
Glacier Bay, Alaska

The Awesome Power
of Nature

If you thought what we did before today was incredible — you, as we, have no idea what is in store for your fourth day in the most beautiful place in the world, Glacier Bay, Alaska. The Hubbard Glacier is a magnificent natural wonder. Two miles wide. Three hundred feet high. That's a thirty-story building. Look out the window next time you're on the 30th floor.

You go to bed the night before and you have no idea that your entire perspective on the world, on nature, on God, and on your life is about to change. I promise — this was one of the top ten days of my life. And no, I don't yet have children.

Anticipation builds as you see what you think are huge chunks of floating ice on the way up the Bay. I say you "think" the pieces are huge because you have no idea what is about to happen.

The Captain announced that he was so awestruck by the beautiful weather that he was going to open the helicopter pad doors and let us get a better view. We hung out on the front of the boat with everyone else for hours until it occurred to me that our balcony sat empty, private, and free from the elbows of other passengers.

Hubbard Glacier
Hubbard Glacier — 300 feet high. A thirty-story building.
Ice Ice chunk Blue ice Ice color

The color of the ice doesn't have anything to do with its temperature. It has to do with oxygen. The more oxygen-deprived the ice — from the compression of the glacier — the more blue the refraction of light. We technically learned that on the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau, but it made the blue that much prettier at the Hubbard.

"Warning! What you are about to see here in no way does justice to what it was really like."

Within about two miles of the glacier, you hear the absolute strangest thing you've ever heard: THUNDER!

And it takes a minute to figure out how in the world it could be thundering on such a beautiful day. It's not thunder. It's the GLACIER. And you realize that when ice falls from the glacier, it makes a horrendous noise.

Light travels faster than sound, so what you're hearing is the sound from the ice falling well after it's already hit the water. So you scan. You watch for finger pointing. You listen for other people on other balconies. And you wait for the thunder that comes from the part of the glacier you can't see.

And you realize: This is where it all starts. Life needs water to continue. The water from the ocean turns into clouds. Life gets rain. And here you are. Right here at the birthplace of the world.

Calving
"THERE!" someone yelled. And the cameras went up.
Splash
The thunder is coming.
Reflection Glacier view Mountain Full view
05
Ketchikan, Alaska

Even Alaska Has
Rednecks

For Ketchikan, we had excursions planned again. Alicia was headed to a canoe ride with Gladys. Jim was to fish for big game. And I was to ride yet another mountain bike. We should have known there was going to be a problem with Ketchikan when we were informed that we would have to tender into the "city."

Ketchikan is home to a whole bunch of salmon and about 40,000 majestic American eagles. The place has a rain-to-sunshine gauge that shows only two weeks a year of rain-free days. In keeping with our great luck, we had one of the prettiest days anyone there could remember.

Mountains
One of the prettiest days anyone there could remember
Boats Dock Inlet
06
At Sea & Vancouver

A Bad Day with
a Good Book

After Ketchikan, we spent a day at sea while we high-tailed it back to Vancouver. It's about this time that we got pretty tired of being away from home. I mean, you know how it is when you just want the sensory overload to stop and you want to get back to being a productive individual? No? Well, a longer cruise might be perfect for you.

My young wife was ill most of the day — not sure if it was something she ate in Ketchikan or on the boat. She stayed in bed all day. In between nursing her, and watching the world float by, I finished reading John Grisham's book, A Painted House.

Ever heard someone describe a part of their journey as the highlight of their vacation? The last day was definitely the low-light of ours. But the four days before it? Worth every mile of Inside Passage.

End of the Alaska story
She now thinks anywhere else would be a disappointment.
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